Zanzibar odwiedziliśmy w marcu tuż przed nastaniem pory deszczowej. O hotelu w którym mieszkaliśmy - Uroa Bay Beach Resort możecie poczytać tutaj .
Wioska Uroa to rybacka osada, która drobnymi kroczkami głównie dzięki turystyce, z dnia na dzień powoli przybliża się do cywilizacji, choć to jeszcze bardzo daleka droga.
W zanzibarskich wioskach nadal nie wszystkie zabudowania mają podstawowe media prąd i wodę. Oświetlenia ulicznego praktycznie brak. Spieczona słońcem gleba nie jest żyzna, rolnictwo w wiosce praktycznie nie istnieje, hodowla kóz i bydła też nie wygląda tutaj najlepiej.
Agrokultura na wyspie rozwinęła się (choć nadal w bardzo prymitywny sposób), głównie na farmach przypraw zlokalizowanych w bujnych lasach deszczowych.
Plantacje ananasów, mango czy trawy cytrynowej to małe wykarczowane poletka w środku lasu deszczowego, nie ma tam żadnych maszyn rolniczych, po kokosy na kilkunasto metrową palmę młodzi chłopcy wspinają się bez żadnego zabezpieczenia.
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Lokalna rzeczywistość już kilka kilometrów za stolicą wyspy wygląda mniej więcej tak jak na poniższych zdjęciach, a im dalej od stolicy tym miejsca wydają się uboższe.
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Mieszkańcy wioski Uroa utrzymują się głównie z turystyki i rybołówstwa. Takie widoki jak na zdjęciach poniżej znajdziecie tuż za bramą hotelu. Taka tu jest rzeczywistość, taka normalność.
Nie zapuszczałam się w głąb slamsów, aby zrobić te zdjęcia, ci ludzie naprawdę żyją w takich warunkach, na takim poziomie, w afrykanskich wioskach jest to norma.
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Nawet rządowe budynki jak ten komisariat policji przypominają łudząco nasze rodzime osiedlowe śmietniki.
Życie na Zanzibarze toczy się praktycznie wokół plaży.
To tędy rozkrzyczne gromadki dzieci idą codziennie do lokalnej koranicznej szkoły na drugim końcu wioski.
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Nie wiem czy wiecie, ale edukacja na Zanzibarze nie jest obowiązkiem. Rodzice posyłają swoje dzieci do szkoły, w nadziei na lepsze życie dla nich i tylko wtedy, gdy ich stać, aby ponieść wszelkie koszta z tym związane , począwszy od opłat przez zakup przyborów, podręczników i mundurka szkolnego.
Choć na nasze realia taka afrykańska podstawowa szkoła nie wydaje się droga, roczny koszt 100 $, to tu dla niektórych mieszkańców jest to naprawdę spora kwota, a dla wielu wręcz nie osiągalna.
Wybierając się na Zanzibar warto zabrać ze sobą trochę szkolnych przyborów. Te dzieci nie żebrzą, ale obdarowane jakimkolwiek drobiazgiem tak bardzo się cieszą. Zwykły długopis jest dla nich powodem do wielkiej radości.
Ujął mnie za serce widok chłopca z uszytym na miarę woreczkiem-plecaczkiem z jutowego worka.
Inne dzieci noszą swoje przybory do szkoły w papierowych torbach.
Plastikowa reklamówka jest tam towarem luksusowym , a drobna zabawka to już sam szczyt dziecięcego szczęścia.
Odkąd funkcjonuje rządowy zakaz używania plastikowych jednorazowych toreb, reklamówki przywożone przez turystów są obiektem pożądania lokalnych mieszkańców nie tylko dzieci.
My zabraliśmy kilka kolorowych worków szkolnych całkiem nieświadomie, że dla tych dzieci to będzie tak cudowny wymarzony prezent.
Większość z tych dzieci wędruje do szkoły na boso, a niektórzy dorośli noszą sandały wytworzone z samochodowej opony.
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To wszystko wydaje się być dla nas takie nierealne, dla turysty z Europy często jest to tylko sceneria do atrakcyjnych fotek. Ale jeśli na chwile zastanowimy się głębiej jak trudne jest życie tych szczęśliwych poniekąd ludzi, urodzonych na rajskiej wyspie, to uświadomimy sobie jak wielka dzieli nas granica.
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Ci ludzie żyją inaczej, marzą inaczej i nie mają tak wygórowanych oczekiwań wobec życia. Pierwszym podstawowym marzeniem jest zaspokojenie głodu, potem w zależności od obrotności osoby, murowany dom czy samochód.
Poziom wiedzy na temat Europy w takich wioskach jest bardzo niski, większość z nich nie wie nic o naszej rzeczywistości.
Kobiety z wioski uprawiają w oceanie algi, które sprzedają lokalnym odbiorcom za niewielkie pieniądze. codziennie w czasie odpływu przychodzą na plażę doglądać swoich upraw.
Niektórzy marzą o własnym biznesie i marzą tak bardzo, że w warunkach nie do przyjęcia w Europie dumni z siebie rozkręcają go jak potrafią najlepiej.
Dwie panie w porzuconym niedokończonym pustostanie, który z założenia miał kiedyś być hotelem otworzyły sobie gabinet SPA i zapraszają tam turystów na masaż.
Te panie codziennie dojeżdżają z miasta Zanzibar publicznym transportem zwanym Dala Dala (który funkcjonuje na wyspie ale nigdzie nie znajdziecie ani przystanków ani informacji o rozkładach jazdy) do wioski Uroa aby tam za 10 $ kogoś pomasować.
Mama Zanzibar bo pod taką nazwą działa ta inicjatywa masuje naprawdę dobrze. Zapewnia pełną godzinę przyjemnych doznań używając naturalnych olejków. Warunki trochę przerażające, ale jeśli przełamiecie w sobie opory to gwarantuje, że nie będziecie żałować ani decyzji ani tych wydanych 40 złotych.
Ja poszłam na całość zafundowałam sobie peeling i masaż, w pustostanie bez łazienki bez prysznica, zostałam obmyta z naturalnego peelingu wodą z oceanu przyniesioną w starym zużytym plastikowym bidonie - odważyłam się i nadal żyje. Wartością dodaną do tego ekstremalnego przeżycia jest świadomość, że dałam zarobić zanzibarskiej matce na jedzenie i edukacje dla jej córki. W trakcie tego masażu ta kobieta wyznała mi, że ma tylko jedno dziecko i jest to jej świadoma decyzja i że marzy o tym, aby nigdy nie było głodne i aby mogla posłać je do szkoły.
Kolejną prężenie rozwijająca się wlasną inicjatywą jest handel. Na plaży powstało lokalne centrum handlowe.
W szopach zbitych z desek, przykrytych palmowymi liśćmi lokalni handlowcy czekają na turystów. W ofercie mają rożnego rodzaju pamiątki, często własnoręcznie wytworzone, choć o dziwo dociera i tam potocznie zwana "chińszczyzna". W bardziej rozwiniętych sklepikach znajdziecie całe kolekcje plażowych tunik i sukienek, torby etc.
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W jednym z tych sklepików biznes prowadzą masajowie. Nie mają kalkulatora, transakcje podliczają pisząc kijem po ubitej piaszczystej podłodze.
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Pomiędzy sklepikami znajdziecie też lokalną plażową restaurację, gdzie warunki higieniczne dalekie są od tych europejskich, ale za to serwują tu owoce morza prosto z wody, grillowane na ruszcie krewetki, kalamary, kraby, homary i ośmiornice.
Najbardziej dochodowym plażowym biznesem jest bycie "agentem turystycznym" ci co sprzedają "tripy" mają stały przypływ gotówki, co widać gołym okiem po ich ubraniach, obuwiu i języku. Ci pracujący w turystyce posługują się językiem angielskim na całkiem wysokim poziomie.
Ostatnia grupa plażowych biznesmenów to rybacy. Ci rdzenni mieszkańcy wioski, codziennie rano wychodzą na plażę remontować swoje łódki, aby wraz z popołudniowym przypływem wyruszyć w morze na połowy krewetek, ośmiornic i kolorowych rybek.
Potem sprzedają swoje zdobycze na targu rybnym w Zanzibar City lub bezpośrednio do plażowych lokali gastronomicznych.
#Tanzania #Afryka #Zanzibar #RajskieWyspy
